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This mod converts every panel on the Voron to a well sealed, removable magnetic doors with all-magnetic >180° (Closer to 200°) degree hinges. All panels function as doors and are removable with no hardware what so ever, just yank 'em out!
- You can remove and reinstall all the panels in under a minute.
- Converts all 5 panels into doors with magnetic "no hardware" hinges.
- No-Glue design.
- Magnets are designed to pull into their print rather than out. So no popped out magnets!
- Provides a good chamber seal with a seal thats easy to inspect and look for gaps/flaws.
- Extremely customizable, install the mod on all the panels, only the doors, just the top, whatever you want. Mix and match!
- Pulls the panels 6mm out from the extrusions, meaning less of a chance the cable chains, hot end, wiring and other parts hitting your panels and scratching them.
- VHB tape. (Better than drilling holes I guess?)
- Requires a ton of magnets. (Approx. 188 to 236)
- While the hinges work well, they can sometimes sag a bit on the side panels just due to the overall weight. But this is just cosmetic.
- Early days of the install you may get annoyed at panel clips popping off the VHB tape. Although this is the same problem the standard Voron doors have.
- Easy install, but tedious due to so many little parts.
- The Weather seal used is a bit expensive, and not a standard Voron BOM part. (See BOM and Tool List for sources)
- Pulling the panels 6mm out from the extrusions has a possibility of interfering with some mods that expect the standard Voron doors and panels.
There are 2 variants of this panel mod:
This is the intended original design. Requires more magnets and hardware, but allows you to open every single panel on your Voron (including the back and top!) like a hinged door or just yank them all off with no hardware.
Exactly the same configuration as standard Voron panels, except with all the benefits of the magnet panels and hinges. This mod was designed with "All Doors" in mind, but for users who don't want this functionality, using the "Voron Spec" configuration will save you a ton of hardware and simplify installation while still allowing you to yank off all the panels in under 30 seconds.
- Small Hammer for tapping magnets gently into place. Doesn't even have to be a hammer, you should not need much force at all. A rubber mallet also works well.
- 1x m3x20 SHCS or similar length screw to use with the hammer. You just need an m3 SHCS long enough you can hold it with your fingers while you use the hammer.
- Flat, solid surface for hammering.
- 2.5mm Hex Key.
- Metric Ruler at least 10cm long. (Calipers, measuring tape, etc, also work fine.)
- Scissors for the VHB tape. You'll want nice, sharp and clean ones.
- A few seasons of The Office while assembling the hardware prior to installation. (Can supplement with your show of choice.)
- 236x - 6x3mm Disc Magnets (Grade n52 Recommended)
- 89x - M3x8mm SHCS Screws
- 69x - Hammerheads, Roll In T-Nuts or Springnuts, nice.
- 20x - Roll In T-Nuts or Springnuts (This is in addition to above)
- Approx. 2 Meters / 6.7 Feet - 0.4 Inch VHB Tape
- Approx. 10 Meters / 33 Feet - 9mm/8mm Weatherseal (M-D Brand, Part No. 01025 Recommended)
- Source: Amazon - 2 Packages of 17ft.
- U.S. Source: Home Depot - 2 Packages.
- U.S. Source: Ace Hardware - 2 Packages.
- U.S. Source: Lowes - 2 Packages.
- 188x - 6x3mm Disc Magnets (Grade n52 Recommended)
- 71x - M3x8mm SHCS Screws
- 63x - Hammerheads, Roll In T-Nuts or Springnuts
- 8x - Roll In T-Nuts or Springnuts (This is in addition to above)
- Approx. 1.8 Meters / 5.9 Feet - 0.4 Inch VHB Tape
- Approx. 10 Meters / 33 Feet - 9mm/8mm Weatherseal (M-D Brand, Part No. 01025 Recommended)
- Source: Amazon - 2 Packages of 17ft.
- U.S. Source: Home Depot - 2 Packages.
- U.S. Source: Ace Hardware - 2 Packages.
- U.S. Source: Lowes - 2 Packages.
- Front Door (Left and Right, As Door)
- 32 Magnets, 12 Screws, 8 Hammerhead, 4 T-nuts/Springnuts
- Side and Top Panels (As Door)
- 44 Magnets, 17 Screws, 13 Hammerheads, 4 T-nuts/Springnuts
- Side and Top Panels (As Panel)
- 32 Magnets, 12 Screws, 12 Hammerheads
- Back Panel (As Door)
- 40 Magnets, 16 Screws, 12 Hammerheads, 4 T-nuts/Springnuts
- Back Panel (As Panel)
- 28 Magnets, 12 Screws, 12 Hammerheads
- [a]hinge_frame_SIZE.stl
- 4 Magnets, 3 Screws, 1 Hammerhead, 2 T-nuts/Springnuts
- [a]hinge_frame_bottom_SIZE.stl
- 4 Magnets, 2 Screws, 2 Hammerheads
- [a]corner_frame_SIZE.stl
- 2 Magnets, 2 Screws, 2 Hammerheads
- [a]side_frame_SIZE.stl
- 2 Magnets, 1 Screw, 1 Hammerhead
- hinge_panel_SIZE.stl
- 4 Magnets, 40mm VHB tape
- door_clip_1_SIZE.stl
- 2 Magnets, 20mm VHB tape
- door_clip_2_SIZE.stl
- 2 Magnets, 20mm VHB tape
- corner_panel_SIZE.stl
- 2 Magnets, 60mm VHB tape
- side_panel_SIZE.stl
- 2 Magnets, 20mm VHB tape
Print one magnet_test.stl for every filament you plan to use for this mod, some filaments behave surprisingly differently!
You are looking for a "snug" but not "tight" fit. You should be able to start the magnets with your hands and some pressure. You do not need to seat them all the way down at this step. The fastest way to find the correct holes is to start by inserting a magnet into the largest bottom hole (L), if the magnet falls in or can be yanked back out with another magnet, try the next smallest hole. The goal is to find one you can shove part of the way in with your hands and can't be yanked back out with another magnet.
Repeat the same steps on the top/vertical holes. An ideal situation is you pick both the same size holes for the top and bottom. But due to print orientation and everyone's printer being just a little different, you may find yourself needing to go up or down a size on the vertical holes.
The sizes of the holes are as follows:
- XS
- Horizontal: 6.0mm
- Vertical: 5.9mm
- S
- Horizontal: 6.1mm
- Vertical: 6.0mm
- M (This is what I use)
- Horizontal: 6.2mm
- Vertical: 6.1mm
- L
- Horizontal: 6.3mm
- Vertical: 6.2mm
After selecting the hole size, now it's time to print the STLs! Select the set of parts that match the hole size you've selected. The top/vertical holes are for the hinges, the horizontal holes were for all other parts.
All prints are designed to print to Voron Spec profiles. If you have warping issues, these parts need very little cooling, all of mine were printed with only about a 5% fan speed on a Stealthburner/G2E/Revo setup. I also ran some experiments and found all the parts can be printed with no cooling what so ever, but YMMV.
All panel STLs have an optional with_clip variant you can print, that will add a small lip on the edge of the model making it a bit easier to catch and open the door with your fingers. If you decide to use these, you only need them on the corners you're expecting to open the door from.
- 10x [a]hinge_frame_SIZE.stl
- 2x [a]hinge_frame_bottom_SIZE.stl
- 12x hinge_panel_SIZE.stl
- 20x [a]corner_frame_SIZE.stl
- 15x [a]side_frame_SIZE.stl
- 2x door_clip_1_SIZE.stl
- 2x door_clip_2_SIZE.stl
- 20x corner_panel_SIZE.stl
- 11x side_panel_SIZE.stl
- 4x [a]hinge_frame_SIZE.stl
- 4x hinge_panel_SIZE.stl
- 20x [a]corner_frame_SIZE.stl
- 19x [a]side_frame_SIZE.stl
- 2x door_clip_1_SIZE.stl
- 2x door_clip_2_SIZE.stl
- 20x corner_panel_SIZE.stl
- 15x side_panel_SIZE.stl
First step is to insert all of the magnets into all of the STLs. It's very important to get the polarity correct. Be aware of the orientation of the parts in the example images.
I've found the best method to insert the magnets is to hand push in the magnet until it's halfway in, and then use the head of an M3x14mm screw and attach it to the magnet, then lightly tap the magnet down in place with a hammer. It makes assembly go much faster. Just be sure to use a flat surface so you don't blow the magnet straight through the hole!
You may preload all the hardware EXCEPT FOR the T-nuts noted in red. These must be loaded into the extrusions and slid into place after installation of the door hinge.
Don't skimp on the VHB tape! When installed, press down hard on the tape to get a better bond to the clips.
If you're doing the "Voron Spec" configuration the install guide still applies, but you need to supplement the 2x hinges on each panel with 1x side clips, effectively making all 4 sides of the panel symmetrical. All other steps are identical.
Provided is a direct link to the STL Placement Reference both on Tinkercad and GitHub. Both will show you the location of every STL in 3d space. Note its not remotely to scale, that's why everything looks ridiculously cramped.
Refer to the following images or the Tinkercad link above for clip placement on the various panels. Apply significant pressure to the tape to ensure it sticks. In my experience, the VHB tape may be a bit weak the first few days but should all hold together just fine. I like to occasionally revisit this and push the clips down a bit more as I work through the project just to make sure they're staying down.
From here on out, all stl names will be shortened for brevity.
When installing the frame STLs, install them loose initially (just tight enough they don't fall out), you'll use the panels themselves to align the frame STLs in a future step. Place them in the same locations as the panel clips, just on the frame.
All Hinges are placed approximately 10cm from the edge of their respective panels.
- corner_panel are placed in the 4 corners of the panel.
- side_panel are placed on the top, bottom and front sides of the panel, in the center.
- hinge_panel are placed 10cm from the edge of the panel on the back side.
- Loosely install corner_frame, side_frame and hinge_frame STL files in the same locations as above, but on the extrusions the panel will attach to.
- corner_panel.stl are placed in the 4 corners of the panel.
- side_panel.stl are placed on the top, bottom and front sides in the center.
- hinge_panel.stl are placed 10cm from the edge of the panel on the back side.
- Loosely install corner_frame, side_frame and hinge_frame STL files in the same locations as above, but on the extrusions the panel will attach to.
- corner_panel.stl are placed in the 4 corners.
- side_panel.stl are placed on left and right sides in the center.
- hinge_panel.stl are placed 10cm from the edge of the panel on the bottom side.
- Loosely install corner_frame, side_frame and hinge_frame_bottom STL files in the same locations as above, but on the extrusions the panel will attach to.
- corner_panel.stl are placed in the left 2 corners.
- hinge_panel.stl are placed 10cm from the edge of the panel on the left side.
- door_clip_1.stl is placed on the bottom right corner.
- door_clip_2.stl is placed on the top right corner.
- Loosely install corner_frame, side_frame (for door_clip_1 and 2) and hinge_frame STL files in the same locations as above, but on the extrusions the doors will attach to.
- corner_panel.stl are placed in the right 2 corners.
- hinge_panel.stl are placed 10cm from the edge of the panel on the right side.
- door_clip_1.stl is placed on the top left corner.
- door_clip_2.stl is placed on the bottom left corner.
- Loosely install corner_frame, side_frame (for door_clip_1 and 2) and hinge_frame STL files in the same locations as above, but on the extrusions the doors will attach to.
- Place one panel at a time on the extrusions and attach them to the loosened frame clips.
- Doublecheck all _frame STLs are magnetically connected to all of the _panel STLs.
- With the panel installed and attached to the magnets, tighten the _frame.stl parts through the _panel.stls with the guide holes provided. Use your hands to hold the _frame.stl and _panel.stl flush with eachother while tightening for better alignment.
- Anywhere there is a hinge, you may now install the Slide in T-nut or Spring nuts and slide them under the STL and tighten down the screws.
- Repeat until all panels are fulled installed.
The weather seal is placed on last so you don't accidentally tear it while installing the frame STLs, you want the weather seal placed flush along the inner side of the extrusion. If you purchased the same brand I did, many times the adhesive isn't aligned, use this to your advantage so you don't have any exposed adhesive on the frame.
You can place the weather seal on the panel side instead, but you may have issues with the seal pinching against some of the magnetic clips occasionally. Try to put the foam 1-2mm back from the outer edge of the panel to help prevent this.
Installation should be complete at this point. This is where you'll need to look at the overall fit and finish, verify everything looks nice, lined up and even when the doors/panels are installed/closed.
Be gentle with the hinges for a few days while the VHB tape settles (ie; don't leave them hanging open on their own weight overnight). I like to give the clips a good squish against the panel here and there as I'm working with the printer, just to be sure.
If you have serious issues with the VHB tape holding to the printed parts post install, there's a few things you can try:
- Try sanding or scratching up the surface of the clip, it will help the VHB tape grab.
- Use something heavy (books, etc) and press the panels into the clips overnight.
- If all else fails and you're working with a filament that just won't stick to the tape no matter what you do, a very thin layer of super glue between the tape and panel clips will perma-bond it forever. Just be extremely careful not to get it on your panels, it'll ruin them!!! If you must do this, I recommend applying the glue to the clip/tape and letting it fully dry before reattaching them to the panels to avoid any superglue leaking on to the panel. Ideally, no one should have to use glue for anything in this mod. But with 10,000,000 brands of ABS and ASA out there, some may just be more stubborn than others.
- All STL files, except the hinges, can have an additional magnet added if you want to go overkill with magnet strength or have tons of weaker magnets. Note that this will add an enormous amount of extra magnets (Roughly +70-80% more) to the BOM, and if you use n52s it'll be ridiculously strong.
- You can rearrange everything, adding or moving hinges and clips where you desire.
- If you're having issues with the front doors closing (ie; hitting eachother) check to make sure clip_1 and _2 are not overlapping the edge of the panel. Also sometimes just fiddling with the hinges can improve fit and finish.
- If you're using hammerheads for the first time, make sure they actually are holding your part in. They can easily miss the extrusions and just tighten into the plastic.
- The corner_panel/frame STLs on the front doors are technically optional. They're more for ascetics than functionality.
- You can remove 1 magnet from each door_clip_1 and door_clip_2 if you find the front door too strong to open. (Or just use weaker magnets if you have them.)
- You can also remove almost all the side_panel/frame STLs from the entire build, although you may want to double-up on magnets in the corner_panel STLs if it makes the panel too weak.
- The raw STL files on Tinkercad.
- This has not been tested with the Clicky-Clack Fridge Door Mod, but should theoretically work if you omit the side clips interfering with the Fridge Mod's hinge. There is a possibility it may rub against the side panel. Please let me know if this is an issue!
- This should work with just about any mod that doesn't have an issue with the panels being pushed outwards about 6-8mm from the frame.
- A magnetic door handle of some sort.
- Small magnetic arms to prop doors open.