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FIXES #198 and a followup item mentioned in #220
Really, we could merge any subset of these commits. I tried to keep them separable.
Apart from the individual design changes, the big structural change is that I've vendored the maptiler style.
Alternatively we could continue with the previous pattern of downloading and post-processing the given style, but as our diversions get more complex, it becomes increasingly hard to reason about. There's a reason these style files are declarative!
I also think that it's totally reasonable that we are starting to develop our own cartography - the needs of our app are special, and unique from some platonic "general purpose map".
Screenshots
before:
after: "main" roads are gray
before:
after: most notable here is the relative building and cell contrast
before:
after: most notable here is the relative building and cell contrast